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There are some nice Spanish reds for just under $10, but I haven't found one that over-delivers on its price point, year in and year out, like the slightly spendier Bodegas Olivares Altos de la Hoya Monastrell ($13). This mourvedre starts off dry and leathery, opens up in the mid-palate ("explodes" might be more like it) and finishes with lushness and elegance. Dark berry and meat flavors carry the day, making it a great match for roasted or braised meat and game. But it also will mesh with and enhance pizza, hearty pasta and most anything made with winter squash.

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